PARIS – Before Notre Dame cathedral and with the Seine River lapping near their designer heels, actresses Gillian Anderson and Demi Moore stepped out in style to attend Chloe’s eco-minded outdoors runway show on the Parisian Left Bank.
A far cry from the huddled, indoor seating of many Paris Fashion Week shows so far, Chloe’s open air venue -- on the river’s edge -- gave virus-conscious fashion editors a breath of fresh air.
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But the show’s message also touted positivity: Being good to the environment can also be chic.
Here are some highlights of the Spring 2022 collection:
CHLOE GOES ECO
The craft-forward approach of Chloe’s new designer, Gabriela Hearst, was apparent in the runway display — if you looked very, very closely.
The house said it had increased the number of garments handmade by artisans, denoted by a sewn-on spiral symbol.
Stylish metal talismans were made from dead-stock jewelry, while multicolored fabrics on slim-fitting patchwork jackets or multicolored scale-like dresses were upcycled from previous Chloe collections. “Shredded, knotted and macramed by hand into new garments,” the house said.
A flappy poncho-type gown in cashmere sported blue stripes hand-painted with vegetable-based blue dye. Nearly 60% of the collection was made from low impact materials.
RICK OWENS REFLECTS
The normally boisterous Rick Owens was in a philosophical mood on Thursday -- reflecting on his return to the Paris catwalk “after four COVID-era shows livestreamed from my home” and the “humbling experience” that the pandemic represented.
Thursday's catwalk went back to the American designer's roots -- his “personal” definition of beauty. The collection began with the signature aggressive aesthetic: A model in alien makeup, an abstract black amorphous girdle and giant black platform waders.
Yet, Owens cleverly varied between hard and light. Diaphanous nylon floated in the air, mixing with sheer black fabric that exposed the flesh. That contrasted with structured detailing, his typical sharp shoulders, and thick jewelry that gave the show a stylish, otherworldly air.
COPERNI’S BEACH
At the Coperni display, designers Arnaud Vaillant and Sébastien Meyer got out the tropical undergrowth on Thursday morning for a fresh and colorful ray of fashion sunshine.
Beach-ready items, swimwear and big shades, which featured throughout the show, nicely contrasted with couture-infused jackets and a variety of touches.
Foulard print bikinis — sheeny and silken — that opened the collection set the tone. They were matched with low-slung baggy pants with utilitarian detailing and platform sandals.
The bikini style was then transposed onto a white dress, with hoops making up the bust and straps. The garment’s clean lines —- repeated with a black number — gave it, like many looks in the show, a crisp and sporty feel.
ISABEL MARANT
On one of the day's last shows, Isabel Marant continued the on-trend beach musing as she infused her typically feminine designs with a bikini silhouette.
A bikini top was placed off-kilter on a colored shirt, while bikini bottoms contrasted with a loose orange top with ruffled sleeves. It was fun, if not groundbreaking.
There were prints and colors galore in a collection that screamed summer. Toggles, straps, flaps, buttons and pockets provided a streetwise, utilitarian edge to the sometimes unisex looks.
What this show lacked in focus, it certainly made up for in energy.
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Thomas Adamson can be followed at Twitter.com/ThomasAdamson_K